Skincare steps explained: what each one does

A skincare step is one product with one job. A routine is easier to plan once you know what each product is for, so this guide goes through the steps one at a time: what each does, who needs it, and who can skip it. It follows the advice of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). For the order these steps go in, see skincare routine order for every skin type. This page belongs to the guide to starting a skincare routine.

The three steps every routine shares

The AAD describes a basic routine as a simple, three-step approach: cleansing, moisturizing and protecting your skin. It says this approach can lower your costs while keeping your skin healthy. Its page on skin care in your 20s names two products to use every day: a mild cleanser and a broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher.

Step	What it does	Who needs it
Cleanser	Removes dirt, oil and debris	Everyone
Toner	A thin liquid after cleansing	Optional; some skin should avoid it
Serum or treatment	Targets one concern	Only if you have that concern
Eye cream	A cream for the skin around the eyes	Optional
Moisturizer	Puts water in the skin and holds it there	Most people
Sunscreen	Protects skin from the sun	Everyone, every morning
Mask or exfoliant	Extra care now and then	Optional; not for everyone

The rest of this page goes through each row.

Cleanser

A cleanser is the first step, morning and night. The AAD says a gentle cleanser removes dirt, oil and debris, and helps prevent clogged pores and breakouts.

How you wash matters as much as what you use. The AAD's face washing advice is to use a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser that does not contain alcohol, wet your face with lukewarm water, apply the cleanser with your fingertips, and pat dry with a soft towel. It says a washcloth or sponge can irritate your skin, and that you should limit washing to twice a day and after sweating.

Pick a cleanser for your skin type. On its page about skin care in your 20s, the AAD gives two examples: acne-prone skin does well with a mild cleanser that removes oil, and dry skin does better with a hydrating cleanser.

Oily skin is where people most often pick a cleanser that is too strong. The AAD's page on oily skin says a face wash that is too harsh can irritate the skin and trigger more oil, and it suggests a gentle, foaming face wash instead. It also says to avoid oil-based and alcohol-based cleansers. A good test from Skinli's own lessons: after you rinse, your face should feel clean and comfortable, and a tight feeling means the cleanser is too strong.

Toner

A toner is a thin liquid that goes on after cleansing. It is optional. The AAD advises people with acne-prone skin to avoid astringents, toners and exfoliants, because these can dry the skin and make acne look worse. For rosacea, a skin condition that causes redness, the AAD says never to use an astringent or toner. When to use toner covers the few cases where one might help.

Serum or treatment

This step is for a specific concern. A serum is a thin product built around an ingredient aimed at one concern. A treatment is a medicine, such as an acne gel or a retinoid. A retinoid is a medicine made from vitamin A.

The AAD's advice is to start with sunscreen and moisturizer, give them a few weeks, and then look for a product that targets the one concern that still bothers you. It says focusing on one concern, such as wrinkles or dark spots, gives the best results. It also says that using more than one anti-aging product within a few days or weeks can irritate the skin.

On its page about skin care in your 20s, the AAD names two options. It describes vitamin C serum as an ingredient that science shows can reduce skin aging and dark spots, applied after washing in the morning and before sunscreen. It describes retinoids as products that can treat acne, dark spots and mild fine lines. The retinoid goes on at night. When to use retinol in your routine explains where it fits.

A treatment that is a drug has an "Active Ingredients" box on its label. That box tells you the ingredient and its strength.

Eye cream

An eye cream is optional. The AAD's page on product order mentions creams around the eyes only to explain how to put them on: use your ring finger, because it is the weakest finger and will not pull hard on the thin skin there. If you use one, it goes after a serum or treatment and before moisturizer.

Moisturizer

A moisturizer puts water into the skin and helps stop water from leaving it. The AAD lists four forms. A gel is often water based and feels light. A lotion is heavier than a gel. A cream is thicker and has more oil, which makes it more hydrating. An ointment is the thickest and does the most for dry skin.

Match the form to your skin. For dry skin, the AAD suggests starting with a cream or ointment. For oily skin, one AAD dermatologist suggests a gel or skipping moisturizer, while the AAD's budget page reminds readers to moisturize even if they have oily skin. For combination skin, the AAD suggests moisturizing only the dry areas. If you are unsure, Skinli's suggestion is to try the lighter form first and watch how your skin responds over two weeks.

Moisturizer matters more when you use a treatment. The AAD says benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and retinoids tend to dry and irritate the skin, and a daily moisturizer can help your skin tolerate them.

Sunscreen

Sunscreen is the last skin care step every morning. The AAD says to apply sunscreen every day before you go outdoors and to choose one with broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance. Broad spectrum means it protects against both types of the sun's rays that harm the skin.

The AAD also says sunscreen can help prevent skin cancer and slow skin aging. It calls sunscreen and moisturizer the two most effective anti-aging products you can buy. A moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher can cover both steps, the AAD says.

In a 2026 survey of 168 dermatologists and dermatology residents in the Netherlands, nearly all said daily sunscreen use is essential, while 12.5% actively recommended multi-step routines.

Masks and exfoliants

Face masks and exfoliants are extras. The AAD says masks can help moisturize the skin and strengthen the skin barrier, the outer layer that keeps water in and irritants out. It also says a mask cannot replace treatment for acne or eczema and cannot replace your daily routine.

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the outer layer of skin, with a tool or scrub or with acids. The AAD says it is not for everyone and can do more harm than good if done wrong. When and how often to exfoliate goes through the details.

Which steps you can skip

Start with the three shared steps and add others only for a reason you can name. The AAD warns that using too many products may irritate the skin, and a long routine is harder to keep up every day.

What makes a good skincare routine gives a short checklist for this. A simple test works for any product: name the concern it is meant to fix. If you cannot name one you have, leave it out for now. How many skincare products you need covers this in more depth.

How long before a step shows results

Give each step time before you judge it. The AAD's page on skin care in your 20s says it takes at least 30 days to know whether a product is working, unless it irritates your skin. For products aimed at aging skin, the AAD says most take at least six weeks and some take up to three months. For acne treatments, the AAD says to allow 6 to 8 weeks to see some improvement.

Stop a product that stings, burns or tingles, the AAD advises. The one exception is a product your doctor prescribed: ask your doctor first, because some prescription products sting. For acne, the complete acne skincare routine shows how the same steps work with acne treatments added. Test any new product on a small area first, as how to patch test a new skincare product explains.