When and how often to exfoliate your face

Exfoliating means removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin. It is an optional step, and it is the step most likely to cause trouble when it is overdone. This guide explains where exfoliating fits in a routine, how often to do it for your skin type, and when to skip it. It follows the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) and the FDA, and it belongs to the guide to starting a skincare routine.

What exfoliating does

The AAD defines exfoliation as the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin. It names two methods:

Method	How it works	Examples
Mechanical	A tool or scrub rubs dead cells away	Brush, pad, sponge, washcloth, scrub
Chemical	An acid dissolves dead cells	Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid; beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid

The FDA says AHA products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin, and that how much depends on the type of acid, its strength, its pH and the other ingredients. It names glycolic acid and lactic acid as the most common AHAs in cosmetics, and salicylic acid as the most common BHA.

The AAD also gives a caution up front. Some people believe exfoliating improves how their skin looks, it says, but exfoliating is not for everyone, and if it is not done properly it could do more harm than good.

Where exfoliating fits in a routine

A rinse-off exfoliant (a scrub or an exfoliating wash) is used in the cleansing step. The AAD's method is to apply it gently, in small circular motions, for 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water.

A leave-on exfoliant (an acid toner, pad or serum) goes on clean skin right after cleansing. That is where the AAD's product order places any treatment: wash, pat dry, then treatment, then moisturizer and sunscreen.

Moisturizer comes right after. The AAD says exfoliating can dry the skin, and advises applying moisturizer immediately after exfoliating to keep the skin healthy and hydrated.

Sunscreen the next morning. The FDA says studies found that four weeks of AHA use raised skin's sensitivity to reddening from the sun by 18 percent, and that the extra sensitivity was gone a week after stopping. Its suggested label for AHA products tells users to use sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using the product and for a week afterward. For BHA products, the FDA also advises sun protection.

How often to exfoliate

The AAD sets the schedule by your skin type and your method. It says how often you exfoliate depends on both, and that generally, the more aggressive the exfoliation, the less often it needs to be done. It warns against over-exfoliating, which can leave skin red and irritated.

For a product with an acid in it, the label sets the upper limit. The FDA's advice for BHA products is to follow the use instructions on the label and not exceed the recommended applications. Skinli's guidance is to start at the lowest frequency the label allows and go up only if your skin stays comfortable for two weeks.

The AAD's page on skin care in your 20s explains the cost of overdoing it. Dermatologists often treat damage from overusing exfoliating products seen on social media, it says. An overused exfoliator can damage the skin barrier, the protective outer layer, and leave raw, irritated skin. A dermatologist quoted there says you may then react to products that never caused a problem before.

Exfoliating by skin type

The AAD says the method you choose should be guided by your skin type:

• Dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin. These skin types may prefer just a washcloth and a mild chemical exfoliator, the AAD says, because mechanical exfoliation may be too irritating.
• Oily, thicker skin. People with this skin type may want stronger chemical treatments or mechanical exfoliation.
• Darker skin tones. The AAD advises avoiding strong chemical or mechanical exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or notice dark spots after burns, bug bites or acne. For some people, especially those with darker skin, more aggressive exfoliation can lead to more pigmentation, which means more dark spots.

Dry skin in winter needs extra care. An AAD dermatologist says people often make the mistake of exfoliating dry, peeling skin in winter, which strips it of more moisture. The advice is to moisturize instead.

For rosacea, a condition that causes redness in the face, the AAD lists glycolic acid and lactic acid among ingredients to avoid.

When to skip exfoliating

The AAD names clear times not to exfoliate:

• Open cuts, wounds or sunburn. The AAD says never to exfoliate skin in any of these states.
• While using a retinoid, retinol or benzoyl peroxide. The AAD says these products can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling, and exfoliating while using them may worsen dry skin or even cause acne breakouts. The Differin adapalene gel label says to avoid products with alpha hydroxy or glycolic acids while using the gel, because they may worsen irritation.
• With a mask that already exfoliates. The AAD advises against adding a face mask with active ingredients you already use, such as acids, because the doubled dose can irritate the skin.
• For children and young teens. The FDA advises avoiding BHA products on infants and children. An AAD dermatologist advises tweens and teens to avoid exfoliating acids unless a dermatologist recommends one.

Exfoliating and acne

Acne-prone skin needs a gentle approach. The AAD's acne tips advise avoiding products that can irritate the skin, including astringents, toners and exfoliants, because these products can dry the skin and make acne appear worse. The AAD's face washing advice also warns against scrubbing, because scrubbing irritates the skin.

Some acne treatments contain an exfoliating acid. Salicylic acid is one. That makes a second exfoliant on top of an acne treatment a common way to overdo it. If you use an acne treatment, check its active ingredient before adding any exfoliant. Salicylic acid vs benzoyl peroxide explains how two common acne ingredients differ, and the complete acne skincare routine shows a routine built around one treatment.

Scrubs and tools to be careful with

Some exfoliating products are harsh. In its advice on face masks, the AAD lists physical exfoliants such as walnut shells or apricot kernels among ingredients to avoid, because they can cause small tears in the skin. Read the ingredient list of any scrub for hard, sharp pieces like these.

Tools need care too. The AAD's face washing advice says that using a washcloth, mesh sponge or anything other than your fingertips can irritate your skin during daily washing. That is why the AAD keeps a washcloth for occasional exfoliation and fingertips for everyday cleansing. If you use a brush or sponge to exfoliate, the AAD says to use short, light strokes.

Dermatologists see the results of overdoing it. In a 2026 survey of 168 dermatologists and dermatology residents in the Netherlands, 88.1% said they regularly see skin problems caused by skincare products, and exfoliating acids were among the ingredients mentioned most often.

How to exfoliate gently

If you decide to exfoliate, the AAD's steps are:

1. Consider the products you already use. Retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make exfoliation too much.
2. Choose a method that suits your skin type, as described above.
3. Be gentle. Apply a scrub or chemical exfoliator in small, circular motions for 30 seconds, then rinse with lukewarm water. With a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.
4. Moisturize right away.
5. Find the right schedule for you, and avoid over-exfoliating.

Test a new exfoliating product first. The FDA advises testing any BHA product on a small area of skin before applying it to a large area. How to patch test a new skincare product explains the AAD's method.

Signs you are exfoliating too much

Stop and let your skin recover if you notice any of these:

• Redness or irritation, which the AAD links to over-exfoliating
• Raw skin, or products that sting when they never did before, which the AAD links to a damaged skin barrier
• Stinging or irritation that lasts, which the FDA says is a reason to stop a BHA product and consult a doctor
• Burning, stinging or tingling from any product, which the AAD says means the product irritates your skin

Go back to cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen until your skin feels normal. See a doctor if pain, blistering, swelling or a rash does not settle after you stop. For where exfoliating sits among the other steps, see skincare routine order for every skin type.