When to use toner, and do you need one?

A toner is a thin liquid you put on after washing, often with a cotton pad. It is one of the most common extra steps in a skincare routine, and one of the least needed. This guide explains where toner goes if you use one, who should skip it, and how to read a toner's label before it touches your face. It follows the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) and the FDA. It belongs to the guide to starting a skincare routine.

Where toner goes in a routine

If you use a toner, it goes right after the cleanser:

1. Cleanser
2. Toner
3. Serum or treatment
4. Moisturizer
5. Sunscreen (morning only)

The AAD's page on product order lists four steps: wash your face, apply any medicine or treatment, apply moisturizer and sunscreen, then apply makeup. It does not name toner. Toner is a thin liquid, and Skinli's rule of thumb for steps the AAD does not name is to go from the thinnest product to the thickest. That puts toner first after cleansing.

Let the toner stop feeling wet before the next product goes on. If a treatment such as an acne gel comes next, the skin should be dry, because drug labels such as the Differin adapalene gel label say to apply the gel to skin that has been cleaned and patted dry. How long to wait between skincare steps covers the timing.

Do you need a toner?

Toner is optional. The AAD describes a basic routine as a simple, three-step approach: cleansing, moisturizing and protecting your skin. Toner is not one of the three.

For two groups, the AAD advises against toners:

• Acne-prone skin. The AAD's acne tips say to use gentle, alcohol-free skin care products and to avoid products that can irritate the skin, including astringents, toners and exfoliants. It says these products can dry the skin and make acne appear worse.
• Rosacea. Rosacea is a skin condition that causes redness in the face. The AAD's rosacea skin care tips say never to use an astringent or toner.

The AAD's acne advice explains why drying the skin backfires. It says dry skin is irritated skin, and any time you irritate your skin, you risk getting more acne. It advises against astringents, rubbing alcohol and anything else that can dry out the skin.

What is in a toner

Toners vary more than most skincare products, so the label matters. Three types of ingredients change how a toner behaves.

Alcohol. The AAD's face washing advice is to use a cleanser that does not contain alcohol, and its acne advice is to choose products labeled alcohol-free. Its rosacea advice lists alcohol first among ingredients to avoid. Alcohol near the top of a toner's ingredient list is a reason to choose a different one.

Exfoliating acids. Some toners contain acids that loosen dead skin cells. An AAD news release says that salicylic acid is commonly found in acne toners. The FDA says the most common alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid, and the most common beta hydroxy acid (BHA) is salicylic acid. A toner with one of these acids is an exfoliant, and the rules for exfoliating apply to it. When and how often to exfoliate your face explains those rules.

Fragrance. The AAD's rosacea advice lists fragrance among ingredients to avoid. For sensitive skin, the AAD suggests products labeled "fragrance free." It warns that products labeled "unscented" can contain masking fragrances that still irritate the skin.

Toners that promise to balance pH

Some toners are sold to "balance" the skin's pH, which is a measure of how acidic something is. The skin's surface is naturally acidic.

A 2018 review in Current Problems in Dermatology found that the skin's surface pH rises after a single wash, and even after rinsing with water alone. It says the skin needs up to several hours to return to its normal level. The review suggests that cleansing and skin care products with a pH of 4.0 to 5.0 may be helpful.

The review is about cleansers and skin care products in general. It does not test toners. A gentle cleanser is where Skinli would start, since the AAD already recommends one for every routine. The AAD's face washing advice is a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser without alcohol, lukewarm water and your fingertips.

Toner and exfoliating acids: sun and retinoids

If your toner contains an exfoliating acid, two cautions apply.

The sun. The FDA says studies found that four weeks of AHA use raised skin's sensitivity to reddening from the sun by 18 percent. The sensitivity went away within a week of stopping. The FDA's suggested label for AHA products tells users to use sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using the product and for a week afterward. For BHA products, the FDA advises sun protection too.

Retinoids and benzoyl peroxide. The AAD says some products can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling, including prescription retinoids and products with retinol or benzoyl peroxide. Exfoliating while using these products may worsen dry skin or even cause acne breakouts. The Differin adapalene gel label says to avoid products that contain alpha hydroxy or glycolic acids while using the gel, because they may worsen irritation. What to mix with a retinoid covers other combinations.

Toner and your skin type

The AAD gives no toner advice for each skin type, but its advice on other products points the same way for each one.

Oily skin. The AAD's page on oily skin says ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid can help reduce oiliness, but they may be too harsh for your skin. It says to stop the product, or use it less often, if your skin becomes irritated. It also warns against alcohol-based cleansers, because they can irritate the skin. A toner with an acid falls under the same advice.

Dry skin. The AAD's moisturizer page advises people with dry skin to avoid products with alcohol, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and fragrance, to help the skin keep its natural oils. Those three ingredients are common in toners, so dry skin is better off without a toner that contains them.

Combination skin. Combination skin is dry in some areas and oily in others. If you want to try a toner, Skinli's suggestion is to use it only on the oily areas, the same way an AAD dermatologist suggests moisturizing only the dry areas.

Children and young teens. The FDA advises avoiding BHA products on infants and children. An AAD dermatologist advises tweens and teens to avoid exfoliating acids unless a dermatologist recommends one. A simple skincare routine for teens covers what to use instead.

How to try a toner safely

If you decide to try one:

1. Read the label. Skip toners with alcohol or fragrance near the top of the list if your skin is dry, sensitive or acne-prone.
2. Test it first. The AAD's advice is to try a new product on a small area twice a day for seven to 10 days. The FDA gives the same advice for any product with a BHA. How to patch test a new skincare product explains how.
3. Add it alone. Add no other new product at the same time. An AAD dermatologist advises introducing one new product at a time to check that your skin can tolerate it.
4. Follow the label on how often. The FDA advises following the use instructions on a BHA product and not using it more often than recommended.
5. Stop if it burns. The AAD's advice for any product that stings, burns or tingles is to stop using it, because those feelings mean the product irritates your skin.

Signs a toner is not right for you

Stop the toner if your skin becomes tight, red, flaky or stings after it goes on. The AAD warns that over-exfoliating can leave skin red and irritated. If you have acne and it seems worse after you start a toner, the AAD's advice to avoid toners for acne-prone skin applies.

Go back to cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen until your skin settles. If redness, pain or a rash does not clear after you stop the product, see a doctor.

For where every other product goes, see skincare routine order for every skin type. If you have acne, the complete acne skincare routine shows a routine with no toner at all.