Oily skin routine: how to control oil and shine

An oily skin routine has one job: control shine and breakouts without irritating the skin. Irritation matters because the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says a face wash that is too harsh can irritate your skin and trigger increased oil production. The routine below follows the AAD's advice for oily skin, step by step. If you want to know why your skin is oily in the first place, read why is my face so oily. If you are not yet sure your skin is oily, start with how to find your skin type.

The routine in one table

Step	Morning	Night
1	Gentle foaming face wash	Gentle foaming face wash (remove all makeup first)
2	Light oil-free moisturizer, ideally with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher	Acne treatment, if you use one
3	Sunscreen labeled non-comedogenic, if your moisturizer has no SPF	Light oil-free moisturizer
During the day	Blotting papers, pressed on and lifted off	Nothing

Three to five products cover it. Adding more products adds more chances of irritation, and irritated skin can make more oil.

Step 1: a gentle foaming wash, twice a day

The AAD says to cleanse your face up to twice daily and after sweating. Its oily skin page recommends a gentle, foaming face wash and warns against oil-based and alcohol-based cleansers, because these can irritate the skin.

Wash with lukewarm water and your fingertips. The AAD's face washing advice says a washcloth or mesh sponge can irritate the skin, and that scrubbing irritates it too. Its page on large pores adds that hot water can irritate the skin and make pores look larger. Pat the skin dry with a soft towel.

NICE, the guideline body for England, gives the same advice in technical terms for acne-prone skin: a soap-free cleanser that is pH neutral or mildly acidic, used twice a day. NICE calls this type of cleanser a syndet, short for synthetic detergent. How to choose a cleanser for acne-prone skin explains how to find one.

Extra washing adds irritation. The AAD page on acne that will not clear says acne-prone skin is sensitive, and washing more than twice a day can irritate it and make acne worse.

Step 2: a light, oil-free moisturizer

Moisturizer on oily skin sounds wrong, but the AAD is clear: although you have oily skin, it is still important to apply moisturizer after cleansing to keep your skin hydrated.

Choose the texture with care. The AAD's guide to moisturizers says a gel is often water-based and feels lighter on the skin than a lotion, while a cream is thicker and has more oil. For oily skin, a dermatologist quoted in that guide suggests a gel, or skipping moisturizer where the skin is oiliest. Skinli's own plan gives the same advice: pick a gel or a light lotion if your face is oily, and look for "non-comedogenic" or "won't clog pores" on the bottle.

Hyaluronic acid. Many light gel moisturizers contain hyaluronic acid. The AAD names it as an ingredient known for its moisturizing qualities. It suits oily skin when it comes in a light, oil-free gel. Pick by texture and label first.

For daytime, the AAD suggests a moisturizer that also contains broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. That saves one step. How to choose a moisturizer for acne-prone skin covers labels and textures in more detail.

Step 3: sunscreen that will not clog pores

The AAD says to wear sunscreen outdoors, because it helps prevent sun damage that can lead to wrinkles, age spots and skin cancer. Its sunscreen guide gives the label to look for on oily skin: "non-comedogenic" or "won't clog pores."

The AAD's oily skin page adds two details. To prevent breakouts, look for sunscreens that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and do not use sunscreens that contain fragrance or oils. The guide from the same group says to look for broad-spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance on every sunscreen.

During the day: blotting papers

Shine often returns by midday on oily skin. The AAD's advice for daytime shine is blotting papers: gently press the paper against your face and leave it on for a few seconds to absorb the oil. Do not rub the paper on your face, because rubbing spreads the oil to other areas.

Two more AAD tips help with shine:

• Makeup. Choose oil-free, water-based makeup. Products labeled "matte" can help reduce shine. Always remove all makeup before sleep.
• Hands. Touching your face through the day spreads dirt, oil and bacteria from your hands. Touch your face only to wash it or apply products, with clean hands.

What to skip

Some products sold for oily skin make it worse. These are the ones the AAD names.

• Harsh, strong face washes. They irritate the skin and can trigger more oil.
• Oil-based and alcohol-based cleansers. These can irritate the skin.
• Astringents, toners and exfoliants on acne-prone skin. The AAD's acne tips say these products can dry your skin and make acne look worse.
• Scrubbing. Scrubbing irritates the skin, which the AAD says can make it look worse.
• Heavy creams and oils on the face. NICE advises people with acne to avoid oil-based and comedogenic moisturizers and sunscreens. Comedogenic means likely to clog pores.

If you have acne as well as oily skin

Oily skin and acne often come together. The AAD says oily skin can clog pores and lead to more breakouts. The routine above stays the same. The acne treatment goes on at night, after washing and before moisturizer.

Start one acne treatment at a time. The American Academy of Dermatology says that a moisturizer helps skin tolerate drying acne treatments such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and adapalene. That matters on oily skin too. A treatment that leaves your face dry and irritated can make it oilier, because the AAD says dry skin leads the body to make more oil. The complete acne skincare routine covers the treatment step in full.

If only part of your face is oily

Many people have an oily forehead, nose and chin and normal or dry cheeks. The AAD calls this combination skin. A dermatologist in the AAD's moisturizer guide tells these patients to treat the face as if it were two faces: moisturize the dry areas and skip the oily ones. The same gentle cleanser works on both. Combination skin explains how to split the routine.

Ingredients that reduce oil, and their limits

Acids. The AAD says salicylic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid can help reduce oiliness, but they may be too harsh for your skin. Its advice is to stop the product, or use it less often, if your skin becomes irritated. If you add one, add it alone and watch your skin for two to three weeks before adding anything else. Salicylic acid vs benzoyl peroxide compares two common acne ingredients.

Retinoids. These are creams and gels made from vitamin A. The AAD says retinoids such as adapalene gel unclog pores and reduce oiliness. The NHS says the retinoids tretinoin and adapalene reduce inflammation and oiliness and prevent spots. The AAD lists adapalene among acne treatments that tend to dry and irritate the skin, which is why a moisturizer matters when you use it. How to start adapalene explains how to begin slowly.

Prescription options. MedlinePlus says a health care provider may recommend or prescribe creams that absorb oil or limit how much the skin makes. If shine or breakouts still bother you after 8 to 12 weeks of a steady routine, see a board-certified dermatologist. The AAD suggests this for anyone concerned about how much oil their skin makes or struggling with blackheads or acne.

How long to give the routine

Give any change 8 to 12 weeks before you judge it. The AAD says to use an acne product for 6 to 8 weeks to see improvement, and Skinli's plans use 8 to 12 weeks for skin to change. Change one product at a time, so that if your skin reacts, you know which product caused it. Before you try any new product on your whole face, patch test it.

Oily skin is set by genes and hormones, so the routine controls the oil for as long as you keep using it. The steps are simple on purpose, so that you can keep them up every day for the three months that skin needs to show a change.