How to choose a cleanser for acne-prone skin

The cleanser is the one product every acne routine uses twice a day, so it matters that it suits your skin. A harsh or oily wash can irritate acne-prone skin and make breakouts worse. A gentle one removes oil, sweat and makeup so your treatment can work. This guide explains what the guidelines say to look for, how to wash, and what to skip. For the full routine around it, see the complete acne skincare routine.

What the guidelines say

NICE, the health guideline body for England, gives one clear recommendation on cleansers for acne. It advises people with acne to use a non-alkaline synthetic detergent cleansing product twice a day on acne-prone skin. Non-alkaline means pH neutral or mildly acidic, close to the skin's own level. NICE calls this type of product a syndet, short for synthetic detergent, and says it comes as a solid bar or a liquid.

NICE's rationale explains why:

• The evidence on skin care products was limited, but what there was suggested that syndet cleansers used twice a day reduce acne spots, both inflamed and non-inflamed.
• Compared with traditional soap bars, syndet products are less irritating and do not leave a layer behind, so they rinse off easily.
• Syndet products help the skin keep its moisture.
• Different forms, such as bars, liquids and foams, are probably similarly effective, so it is reasonable to try the cheapest one first.

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) gives the same advice in shopping terms. It recommends a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser that does not contain alcohol, and a mild, non-comedogenic cleanser for acne. Non-comedogenic means the product should not clog pores, and what non-comedogenic means explains how far to trust the label. The AAD's men's skin care page adds that regular bar soap often contains harsh ingredients that can dry the skin.

What to look for on the label

Look for	Why
"Gentle", "mild" or "soap-free"	NICE says soap-free cleansers are less irritating than soap bars
"Non-comedogenic" or "won't clog pores"	The AAD recommends a non-comedogenic cleanser for acne
"Fragrance-free" if your skin is sensitive	The AAD says fragrance can leave skin irritated and dry
No alcohol	The AAD recommends a cleanser that does not contain alcohol
Foaming, for oily skin	The AAD recommends a gentle, foaming face wash for oily skin

Skip these:

• Oil-based cleansers and balms. The AAD says oil-based and alcohol-based cleansers can irritate the skin. NICE advises people with acne to avoid oil-based and comedogenic products.
• Harsh or "deep cleaning" washes. The AAD says a face wash that is too harsh can irritate your skin and trigger more oil.
• Scrubs and cleansing tools. The AAD says a washcloth, mesh sponge or anything other than your fingertips can irritate the skin.
• Astringents and toners after washing. The AAD's acne tips say these can dry the skin and make acne look worse.

How to wash

The AAD's steps for acne-prone skin:

1. Wet your face with lukewarm water.
2. Apply the cleanser lightly with your fingertips, using a circular motion.
3. Rinse gently with warm water, using only your fingers.
4. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel.

Wash twice a day, when you wake up and before bed, and after you sweat. The AAD's page on acne that will not clear says acne-prone skin is sensitive, and washing more than twice a day can irritate it and make acne worse.

A 2006 randomized trial in the journal Pediatric Dermatology tested washing frequency in young men with mild to moderate acne. They washed with a mild cleanser once, twice or four times a day for 6 weeks. The group washing twice a day improved in blackheads and other non-inflamed spots. The group washing once a day had more redness and more inflamed spots. The authors concluded that there is some support for washing twice a day with a mild cleanser, and that washing more often may do less harm than doctors once thought.

Medicated cleansers

Many acne washes contain benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. The evidence for them is limited.

• NICE found some limited evidence on acidic cleansers and benzoyl peroxide face washes, and said it was not enough to make a recommendation.
• A 2018 systematic review in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment looked at 14 studies with 671 people on face washing and over-the-counter cleansers, including salicylic acid cleansers. It found too few well-run studies to give reliable recommendations.
• The AAD says a salicylic acid cleanser may help, because studies show salicylic acid can unclog pores. If it dries or irritates your skin, the AAD suggests a mild, non-comedogenic cleanser in the morning and the salicylic acid cleanser before bed.
• The NHS says a benzoyl peroxide gel wash is used for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinsed off. It says benzoyl peroxide can bleach clothing, fabrics and hair, so use a white towel.

A wash stays on your skin for a minute or two, while a leave-on treatment stays on for hours. If you already use a leave-on acne treatment, a plain gentle cleanser keeps the total dryness down. The AAD says dry skin is irritated skin, and irritation raises the risk of more acne. Salicylic acid vs benzoyl peroxide compares the two ingredients.

Removing makeup and sunscreen

The AAD's page on makeup and acne says to remove your makeup, including eye makeup, before going to bed, using an oil-free makeup remover, and then to wash your face with a gentle cleanser. It says to avoid scrubbing, even when removing makeup. NICE advises people with acne who use makeup to avoid oil-based and comedogenic products and to remove makeup at the end of the day.

After sweating and exercise

Sweat is one of the reasons the AAD adds "and after sweating" to its twice-a-day rule. Its face washing page says perspiration, especially under a hat or helmet, irritates the skin, and advises washing as soon as possible after sweating heavily.

During a workout, the AAD's acne habits page says rubbing sweat away with a towel can irritate your skin and cause breakouts. Its advice is to use a clean towel and gently pat the sweat away, then wash with your usual mild cleanser when you finish. A third wash after exercise follows the AAD's advice.

Water, towels and other details

• Water temperature. The AAD recommends lukewarm water. Its page on pores says hot water can irritate the skin and make pores look larger.
• Towels. Pat dry with a clean, soft towel. If you use benzoyl peroxide, the NHS says it can bleach fabrics, so a white towel and pillowcase save your colored ones.
• Amount. A small amount is enough. On dry skin, the AAD says to use enough cleanser to remove dirt and oil but not so much that you see a thick lather.
• Too tired to wash. The AAD says that if you are too tired to wash your face at night, to use a makeup remover towelette labeled non-comedogenic, because makeup should come off before sleep.

Common cleanser mistakes

• Washing more when you break out. It is natural to wash more often when acne flares. The AAD says washing more than twice a day can irritate acne-prone skin and make acne worse.
• Choosing the strongest wash on the shelf. A strong wash can trigger more oil, the AAD says. Gentle works better.
• Using body soap or bar soap on the face. The AAD says regular bar soap often contains harsh, drying ingredients.
• Stacking active products. An acid cleanser, an acid toner and a leave-on treatment in the same routine can dry the skin out. Pick one active product and keep the rest plain.
• Changing cleansers every week. Give a new cleanser at least two weeks before you judge how your skin feels, and change one product at a time.

Cleanser by skin type

Skin type	What suits it
Oily	Gentle foaming wash. The AAD advises against strong washes that dry the skin
Dry	A gentle, fragrance-free cleanser, and less of it. The AAD says to avoid a thick lather on dry skin
Combination	One gentle cleanser for the whole face
Sensitive	Mild, soap-free and fragrance-free. See sensitive skin

Not sure which type you have? See how to find your skin type. After washing, the next step is a moisturizer. How to choose a moisturizer for acne-prone skin covers that step.

When a cleanser is not enough

A cleanser supports acne treatment. If breakouts continue after 8 to 12 weeks of a steady routine with a leave-on treatment, or if your acne is deep, painful or scarring, see a doctor. The NHS says to see a GP if you have tried treating acne yourself and it is not getting better.