What non-comedogenic means on a skincare label

"Non-comedogenic" appears on moisturizers, sunscreens, cleansers and makeup, and dermatologists tell people with acne to look for it. It is useful, and it has limits. This guide explains what the word means, who controls it, where it came from, and how to use it well. For the products it matters most on, see how to choose a moisturizer for acne-prone skin and how to choose a cleanser for acne-prone skin.

What the word means

A comedo is a plugged pore. NIAMS, the NIH institute for skin diseases, says doctors call enlarged or plugged hair follicles comedones. Whiteheads and blackheads are both comedones, and they are the first stage of acne. "Comedogenic" means likely to cause these plugs, and "non-comedogenic" means not likely to.

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) puts it simply: the word "non-comedogenic" means the product won't clog your pores. It adds that when pores clog, they expand, which makes them more noticeable.

Other labels mean the same thing to a shopper. The AAD lists "won't clog pores", "non-comedogenic", "non-acnegenic" and "oil free" as the words to look for on products for acne-prone skin. Non-acnegenic means the product should not cause acne.

Why dermatologists recommend it

The AAD's page on pores says to look for one of these terms on everything you apply to your face, and not to use the product if none of them appears. Its acne habits page says to use only makeup, sunscreen, skin care and hair care products labeled "non-comedogenic" or "won't clog pores". Its oily skin page says products with these labels, including cleansers, moisturizers and makeup, won't clog pores or cause acne.

NICE, the guideline body for England, advises people with acne to avoid oil-based and comedogenic skin care products, sunscreens and makeup. Its rationale says the committee found no research on oil-free or non-comedogenic products themselves, and based the advice on its members' knowledge: oil-based and comedogenic products can make acne worse, because acne is marked by oily skin and blocked pores.

Who checks the label

Nobody checks it before the product is sold.

• The FDA says the law does not require cosmetic labels to have FDA approval before products go on the market, and that the FDA does not have a list of approved or accepted claims for cosmetics. Claims must be truthful and not misleading, and the FDA can act after the fact.
• A 2018 systematic review in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment found that "fragrance-free", "hypoallergenic", "non-comedogenic" and "oil-free" on cosmetic labels are not regulated by any governing body and give varied real benefit.

So a company decides for itself when to print "non-comedogenic". The label tells you what the company intends, and your skin tells you the result.

Where the idea came from

The idea of pore-clogging ingredients comes from older lab tests. A 2006 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology by Zoe Draelos and Joseph DiNardo explains the history. Animal tests were first used to judge whether raw ingredients clog pores, on the assumption that any finished product containing them would clog pores too. Based on that assumption, dermatologists were given lists of ingredients for acne-prone patients to avoid.

The 2006 study tested finished products instead, by applying them to the upper backs of six people who form plugged pores easily and checking for the tiny plugs that start acne. Its conclusion: finished products made with pore-clogging ingredients are not necessarily pore-clogging. How much of an ingredient a product has, and what else is in it, changes the result.

This is why an ingredient list is a weak guide. A product can contain an ingredient that is on an old "avoid" list and still suit your skin, and a product with a clean-looking list can still clog your pores.

Other label words, and what the sources say

Shelves carry many words that sound alike. Here is what the sources say about each.

Label word	What it is meant to say	What the sources say
Non-comedogenic	Should not clog pores	The AAD recommends it. A 2018 review says no body regulates it
Won't clog pores	The same idea in plain words	The AAD lists it as an equal choice
Non-acnegenic	Should not cause acne	The AAD lists it among the words to look for
Oil-free	Contains no oil	The AAD recommends it for acne-prone skin. The 2018 review says no body regulates it
Fragrance-free	Contains no fragrance	The FDA says the term has no federal definition. The AAD recommends it for sensitive skin
Hypoallergenic	Less likely to cause allergy	The FDA says the term has no federal definition
Natural	Made with plant or natural ingredients	The 2018 review found natural products are not necessarily safer or less irritating

The first four matter most for acne. The next two matter most for sensitive skin. Sensitive skin covers those in more detail.

Where the label matters most

Some products stay on your face all day or all night, so the label matters more for them.

Product	What to look for
Moisturizer	Oil-free, non-comedogenic or won't clog pores. The AAD says a moisturizer with one of these words is unlikely to cause acne
Sunscreen	Non-comedogenic or won't clog pores. The AAD recommends this for acne-prone and oily skin
Makeup	Oil-free, water-based, non-comedogenic, or mineral makeup, which the AAD says can hide dark spots well
Cleanser	Mild and non-comedogenic. It rinses off, but the AAD still recommends a non-comedogenic cleanser for acne
Hair products	Non-comedogenic or oil-free, especially if you break out along the hairline

Makeup with acne

The AAD's page on makeup and acne says wearing makeup is fine for people with acne if the products are chosen with care. It says to look for oil-free, won't clog pores or non-comedogenic on the label, and to put your acne medicine on first if you wear makeup while using it. At night, remove makeup with an oil-free remover, then wash with a gentle cleanser. It warns that sharing makeup, brushes or applicators can spread infections, such as pink eye or cold sores.

Why one product can suit one person and not another

Skin varies, and so does the way it reacts to the same product. The AAD says some products labeled non-comedogenic may still cause acne in a few people, which is why it suggests trying different products until you find ones that do not cause breakouts. Its page on makeup says some cosmetics can cause a type of acne called acne cosmetica, and that even women who would not otherwise have acne can get it from makeup. The NHS lists rashes on the face that can make acne worse among the reactions that moisturizing creams can sometimes cause. A label cannot predict your skin's reaction, so your own 7 to 10 day test and a record of what you use give you the answer.

How to use the label well

1. Use it as a first check. On the face, choose products labeled non-comedogenic, oil free or won't clog pores, as the AAD advises.
2. Test before you commit. The AAD's method is to apply a new product to a quarter-sized spot, such as the bend of your elbow, twice a day for seven to 10 days, and use it only if there is no reaction. How to patch test a new skincare product gives the steps.
3. Add one product at a time. If you start several at once and break out, you cannot tell which one caused it.
4. Watch for months. The AAD says acne from cosmetics can take anywhere from a few days to 6 months to appear.
5. Switch if it fails. The AAD says some labeled products may still cause acne in a few people, and you may need to try different products.

Common mistakes

• Sleeping in makeup. The AAD says even non-comedogenic makeup can cause acne if you sleep in it. Remove makeup every night.
• Sharing makeup. The AAD says sharing makeup can lead to blemishes, even with non-comedogenic products.
• Oils and butters on the face. The AAD's page on acne in darker skin tones says products with oil, such as cocoa butter or shea butter, can clog pores on the face, back or chest.
• Hair products. Oily hair products can clog pores on the forehead and hairline, and on oily skin the label matters most (see the oily skin routine). The AAD recommends labels such as non-comedogenic for hair care too.
• Trusting "natural". The 2018 review found that products labeled as having natural ingredients are not necessarily safer or less irritating.

When breakouts continue with non-comedogenic products

If you use only non-comedogenic products and still get breakouts, an acne treatment is the next step to add. The complete acne skincare routine covers treatment steps. See a doctor if your acne is deep, painful or scarring, or has not improved after 8 to 12 weeks of steady care. To match products to your skin type, see how to find your skin type.