How to choose a moisturizer for acne-prone skin

Some people with acne skip moisturizer because their skin already feels oily. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends it anyway, because acne treatments dry the skin, and dry, irritated skin can lead to more breakouts. This guide explains why moisturizer belongs in an acne routine, how to read the labels, which texture suits your skin, and how to use it. For the washing step that comes before it, see how to choose a cleanser for acne-prone skin.

Why acne-prone skin needs moisturizer

The AAD's page on moisturizer and acne gives three reasons.

Acne treatments dry the skin. The AAD says benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, retinoids such as adapalene, tazarotene and tretinoin, and isotretinoin tend to dry and irritate the skin, and that using a moisturizer every day can help your skin tolerate these medicines.

Dry skin makes more oil. The AAD says that when your skin becomes dry, your body makes more oil, and the extra oil can clog your pores, which may lead to more breakouts. The right moisturizer can prevent the skin from becoming dry and irritated.

It helps people keep going. A 2013 randomized trial in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment gave 30 volunteers adapalene gel 0.1% once a day on the whole face, and a moisturizing lotion once a day on only one side. The side with moisturizer scored lower for redness, peeling, dryness, stinging and itch. The authors concluded that an effective moisturizer improves tolerance of adapalene and may help people keep using it.

The AAD also reports that in studies, most patients saw less acne between 4 and 8 weeks after starting an acne-friendly moisturizer. All of those patients also used acne medicine and a cleanser chosen by a dermatologist, so the result reflects the whole routine.

Read the label

The AAD says to look for one of these words on the container: oil-free, non-comedogenic, or won't clog pores. It says a moisturizer with one of these descriptions is unlikely to cause acne. Non-comedogenic means the product should not clog pores. NICE, the guideline body for England, advises people with acne to avoid oil-based and comedogenic moisturizers and sunscreens.

These labels are a good first check, with two limits:

• A 2018 systematic review in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment found that "non-comedogenic", "oil-free", "fragrance-free" and "hypoallergenic" on cosmetic labels are not regulated by any governing body.
• The AAD says that some products labeled this way may still cause acne in a few people, so you may need to try more than one.

What non-comedogenic means on a skincare label explains where the term comes from and how much to trust it.

Match the texture to your skin

The AAD's moisturizer guide describes the textures. A gel is often water-based and feels lighter on the skin than a lotion. A cream is thicker and has more oil than a lotion or gel, so it is more hydrating. An ointment is the thickest of all.

Your skin	Texture	Source
Oily	Light gel, or skip moisturizer on the oiliest areas	A dermatologist in the AAD's moisturizer guide
Combination	Gel or nothing on the forehead, nose and chin. Cream on dry areas	The AAD's "two faces" advice
Normal	Light lotion	The AAD's moisturizer guide
Dry or easily irritated	Cream, labeled non-comedogenic	The AAD's moisturizer guide
Oily skin that still feels tight	Light, oil-free gel with glycerin or hyaluronic acid	The AAD names both as moisturizing ingredients

Skinli's own plans give the same advice in short: if your face is oily, pick a gel or a light lotion. If your skin is dry or stings easily, pick a cream. Look for "will not clog pores" or "non-comedogenic" on the bottle.

Ointments and petroleum jelly. These are the richest options. The AAD says to avoid putting petroleum jelly on your face if you are acne-prone, because it may cause breakouts in some people. Keep ointments for the lips and body if you get acne.

Moisturizer with sunscreen. The AAD's oily skin page suggests a moisturizer that also contains broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, to save a step in the morning.

Ingredients worth looking for

Start with the label words. After that, a few ingredient names come up in the sources.

• Ceramides. A dermatologist in the AAD's moisturizer guide describes ceramides as waxy fats that help hydrate skin. MedlinePlus suggests moisturizers that contain ceramides for dry skin.
• Hyaluronic acid and glycerin. The AAD's dry skin tips list both among ingredients to look for, and its moisturizer guide says hyaluronic acid is known for its moisturizing qualities. Both come in light gels that suit oily skin.
• Dimethicone. The AAD's dry skin tips list it too. It appears in many light, oil-free lotions.

And a few to avoid on the face if you get acne or dryness: fragrance, alcohol and alpha hydroxy acids, which the AAD's moisturizer guide says to avoid to help your skin keep its natural oils, and heavy butters and oils. A dermatologist quoted on the AAD's page about dry skin in darker skin tones says butters and oils tend to turn liquid on the skin, so they work less well as moisturizers.

Adjust with the season and your treatment

Your moisturizer may need to change during the year. A dermatologist in the AAD's moisturizer guide says it is important to adjust your routine for a different season, and to be careful when you add new products. You might use a lighter gel in summer and a non-comedogenic cream in winter.

Your acne treatment changes the need too. In the first weeks of benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid, the skin is often drier, and Skinli's plans say dry, red or peeling skin in weeks 2 to 4 is normal and that more moisturizer helps. As the skin adjusts, you may need less.

On darker skin, dryness shows as a whitish or grayish look. The AAD's page on dry skin in darker skin tones says a moisturizer with ceramides can reduce that look.

How to use it

1. After washing, on damp skin. The AAD says to leave some water on your skin after washing, then apply moisturizer. Applying it after you wash helps hold water in the skin.
2. Twice a day. The AAD's acne habits page says to apply a moisturizer made for acne-prone skin twice a day, after washing your face, if your skin feels dry.
3. After the acne treatment at night. Skinli's plans put the treatment gels on clean, dry skin and the moisturizer after them. What order to apply your acne products shows the full order.
4. Whenever the skin feels dry. The AAD says to use moisturizer every day when your skin feels dry.
5. Smooth it on gently. The NHS says emollients should be smoothed gently into the skin in the direction the hair grows, which helps prevent blocked hair follicles.

Signs a moisturizer is not right for you

The NHS lists skin reactions that emollients can sometimes cause: a burning or stinging feeling that does not settle after a few days, blocked or inflamed hair follicles, and rashes on the face that can aggravate acne. If any of these happen, stop the product and try a different one.

New breakouts after starting a new moisturizer can also mean it does not suit you. The AAD says acne caused by oily hair products can take 4 to 6 weeks to clear after you stop them, and product acne on the face can take time to settle too, so change only one product at a time. Before you use a new moisturizer on your whole face, patch test it.

Common mistakes

• Skipping moisturizer on oily skin. The AAD says that although you have oily skin, it is still important to moisturize after cleansing.
• Stripping, then over-moisturizing. A dermatologist in the AAD's moisturizer guide describes people who strip their face, then put on too much moisturizer, and end up with dry skin and pimples.
• Using a rich body cream on the face. Heavy creams and oils can clog pores. Keep face products labeled non-comedogenic.
• Fragrance. The AAD's moisturizer guide says to avoid products with fragrance, which can irritate dry skin. Sensitive skin explains fragrance labels.

When to see a doctor

If your skin stays dry, red and stinging despite moisturizer, or your acne is deep, painful or scarring, see a doctor. A dermatologist can adjust your acne treatment and suggest a moisturizer that suits it. The AAD says that if using a moisturizer still seems likely to worsen your acne, a dermatologist can tell you what will help. To confirm your skin type first, see how to find your skin type.