Moisturizer for sensitive skin: types and labels

A moisturizer for sensitive skin should be fragrance-free and free of alcohol, and for dry skin it should be a cream or an ointment. Look for ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides or hyaluronic acid, and test it on your arm before it goes on your face. That is what the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), the NHS and the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) advise between them. This guide explains each part. It is part of Skinli's guide to sensitive skin.

Skinli gives general education and is not a doctor. Skinli has tested no moisturizer, and no source read for this guide tested a product made for sensitive skin, so this page names no brand. Acne-prone skin has its own guide, how to choose a moisturizer for acne-prone skin, and so does skin that is raw and peeling: moisturizer for a damaged skin barrier.

Why sensitive skin needs moisturizer

The AAD describes sensitive skin as skin that "may sting or burn after product use". The sources read for this guide advise a plain moisturizer on that skin every day.

The NHS calls moisturizers emollients and says: "They cover the skin with a protective film to trap in moisture." A 2017 review in the journal Clinical Medicine and Research calls moisturizer "a major component of basic daily skin care", in particular when the skin barrier, the outer layer that holds water in, is not working well. The American Contact Dermatitis Society advises people with skin allergies to protect the skin barrier with "frequent application of bland fragrance-free moisturizing creams or ointments."

The AAD gives the same advice for rosacea, a skin condition that it says often makes skin sensitive and easily irritated. Its 2024 news release says: "Moisturize every day after cleansing, even if your skin feels oily."

Some stinging comes from dryness. The AAD says: "If your skin is red, cracking, itching, stinging, or has a rash, it may be excessively dry." A moisturizer is the first step for that skin too.

Gel, lotion, cream or ointment

Moisturizers differ mainly in how much oil they hold. The NHS says: "The difference between lotions, creams and ointments is the amount of oil they contain."

Type	What the sources say
Gel	"often water-based and tends to feel lighter on the skin than a lotion" (AAD)
Lotion	Holds less oil than a cream. The AAD says ointments and creams "add more moisture to skin and are more effective than lotions"
Cream	"thicker and has higher oil content than a lotion and gel" (AAD). The NHS says creams are good for daytime because they absorb quickly
Ointment	"the thickest of all, making it the most effective in remedying dry skin" (AAD). The NHS says ointments "are usually free of preservatives so are suitable for sensitive skin, but should not be used on weeping eczema"

Preservatives matter on sensitive skin because they are one of the five common groups of allergens the FDA lists for cosmetics, with fragrances, dyes, metals and natural rubber. An ointment with no preservatives leaves out one of those groups.

Which type suits you depends on the skin. The NHS says: "Creams and lotions tend to be more suitable for inflamed (swollen) areas of skin." Dry skin that is not inflamed does better with the thicker types. For rosacea, the AAD's advice is: "Choose a cream instead of a lotion or gel."

The face and the body can take different products. The AAD's winter skin page says facial skin "is thinner and more sensitive", so many face moisturizers are made thinner and less likely to cause acne. The AAD's moisturizer page also says to make sure the product is labeled non-comedogenic, "meaning it doesn't block pores." The guide to what non-comedogenic means covers that label in detail.

Ingredients to look for

The AAD names ingredients in three places.

• For dry skin, its dry skin page lists jojoba oil, dimethicone, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum and shea butter as ingredients to look for in a cream or ointment.
• On its moisturizer page, a dermatologist suggests "ceramides, which are waxy lipid molecules that help hydrate skin, and hyaluronic acid, which is also known for its intense moisturizing qualities."
• For dry or sensitive skin, its page on face masks lists hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin, colloidal oatmeal and green tea extract.

Lactic acid is on the dry skin list, and it is also an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). The FDA says AHA products "cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin." The AAD's moisturizer page says to avoid alpha hydroxy acids, and its rosacea page lists lactic acid among the ingredients to avoid. If your skin stings easily, choose from the other ingredients on the list.

Petroleum jelly is one more choice. The AAD's eczema advice for children says: "Some children do better with fragrance-free products, so consider petroleum jelly".

Ingredients to avoid

The AAD's moisturizer page says: "Avoid products with alcohol, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), and fragrance to help your skin retain its natural oils." Its dry skin page adds retinoids, the group of ingredients that includes retinol, to the list of products to stop when skin is dry.

Alcohol on a label needs a careful reading. The FDA says the word "alcohol" used alone means ethyl alcohol. Products labeled "alcohol free" "may contain other alcohols, such as cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, or lanolin alcohol". The FDA calls these fatty alcohols and says they act on the skin in a different way from ethyl alcohol.

Two more points from the NHS:

• Aqueous cream contains sodium lauryl sulfate, "which can cause skin irritation such as burning, stinging, itching and redness." The NHS eczema page says not to use it.
• Sensitive skin "can sometimes react to certain ingredients, such as perfume in over-the-counter emollients."

The AAD's rosacea page lists further ingredients to avoid on a red, sensitive face: camphor, menthol and urea, next to alcohol, fragrance and the two acids above.

What the label words mean

No label word on a moisturizer has a legal meaning in the US. The FDA says it "isn't enough to check for terms like "hypoallergenic", "fragrance-free" or "for sensitive skin," as there is no federal standard or definition". Its advice is to read the ingredient list and avoid ingredients you know or think you react to.

Fragrance-free and unscented. The AAD defines the two words on its eczema page. Unscented means a fragrance is masked, so you cannot smell it. Fragrance-free means the product is free of all fragrances, "even ones that you cannot smell." Its dry skin page warns that an unscented product "can contain chemicals that neutralize or hide the odors of other ingredients. These chemicals can irritate dry, sensitive skin." The FDA agrees that "Even some products labeled "unscented" may contain fragrance ingredients." Choose fragrance-free. Then still check the list, because a 2003 review in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology found that "products labelled as 'fragrance free' have also been shown to contain fragrance ingredients". The AAD also warns about plant-based botanical ingredients, which "may still have fragrance-related ingredients."

Fragrance-free vs unscented covers these label words in more depth.

For sensitive skin. The AAD's rosacea advice is to "Select products that say they are made for sensitive skin and non-comedogenic". Read it as a sign of what the maker intends, and then read the ingredient list.

Hypoallergenic. The FDA says the term "means whatever a particular company wants it to mean."

Natural or organic. A dermatologist quoted on the AAD's moisturizer page says: "So, all natural in no way means hypoallergenic." She advises people with sensitive skin to avoid organic lines, "because a lot of the ingredients can aggravate allergies."

A seal for eczema. For children with eczema, the AAD suggests products with the National Eczema Association's Seal of Acceptance.

How to put moisturizer on

When. Right after washing or a shower. The AAD's dry skin page says to "gently pat your skin dry and immediately apply your fragrance-free moisturizer." The NHS gives the same advice and says to apply it "while the skin is still moist".

Damp or dry skin. The sources differ here. Several AAD pages, and the NHS, say to apply moisturizer to damp skin. The AAD's rosacea page says to wait until the face is dry, because "When you apply moisturizer to dry skin, it's less likely to burn or sting." If moisturizer stings on damp skin, try it on dry skin.

How. The NHS says "do not rub it in" and to smooth it into the skin in the direction the hair grows. Around the eyes, the AAD says to be gentle "so you do not pull too hard on this delicate skin."

How often. For dry skin conditions, the NHS says emollients should ideally go on "at least 3 or 4 times a day." The NHS also suggests a mix, for example "a cream during the day and an ointment at night."

In what order. The AAD's order is: wash your face, apply any medication or treatment, apply moisturizer and/or sunscreen, then apply makeup. For the sunscreen step, see sunscreen for sensitive skin. The NHS advises waiting "20 to 30 minutes between using an emollient and using the other treatment" when you use a medicated cream as well.

Test it first, and when to stop

Test every new moisturizer before it goes on your face. The AAD says to apply it to "a quarter-sized spot on your skin where the product won't be rubbed or washed away, such as the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow", twice a day for 7 to 10 days. If your skin reacts, wash it off and do not use it again. The full method is in how to patch test a new skincare product.

A moisturizer that suited you can stop suiting you. The NHS says an emollient used for some time "may eventually become less effective or may start to irritate your skin". The NHS lists burning or stinging that does not settle, and rashes on the face that make acne worse, among the reactions to watch for.

The AAD asks: "Does anything you apply to your skin (including moisturizer) cause burning, stinging, or irritation? Tell your dermatologist." The guide why does my skincare sting covers the usual causes. See a doctor if a rash spreads, blisters, lasts or keeps coming back. A dermatologist can run patch testing to find the ingredient behind it. Get medical help right away for swelling, trouble breathing, nausea or vomiting after a product, which the AAD lists as signs of a life-threatening allergic reaction.

For eczema, the eczema moisturizing guide covers moisturizer and bathing in more detail.