Moisturizer for a damaged skin barrier: what to use
A moisturizer for a damaged skin barrier is fragrance-free, with ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin or petrolatum. The evidence, and how to apply it.
By Nick, Founder of Skinli. Not a doctor. General education only.
Part of the Skin barrier and using too much, which puts every step in order.
When your skin barrier is damaged, moisturizer is the product that does the most good. Your skin barrier is the top layer of skin that keeps water in and irritants out, and a moisturizer does part of that job for it while it heals. This guide explains what to look for on the label, which ingredients have evidence behind them and how strong that evidence is, and how to apply moisturizer so it helps without stinging. It is part of Skinli's guide to a damaged skin barrier. For choosing a moisturizer when acne is the main concern, see how to choose a moisturizer for acne-prone skin.
Skinli gives general education and is not a doctor.
What a moisturizer does
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says a moisturizer "works by putting moisture into the skin, as well as preventing water from leaving the skin." The NHS says emollients, its word for moisturizers, "cover the skin with a protective film to trap in moisture." MedlinePlus adds that moisturizers "help skin repair itself" and are a key part of treating irritant contact dermatitis, the rash that irritating products cause.
A 2017 review sorts moisturizing ingredients into three kinds by what they do:
- Ingredients that pull water in, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid. They draw water into the top layer of skin. The review says that on their own they can let water evaporate again, so they work best combined with the next kind.
- Ingredients that seal water in, such as petrolatum. They form a water-repelling layer on the skin that slows water loss.
- Ingredients that soften, mostly fats and oils, which the review says fill the gaps between skin cells and make skin smoother and softer.
Most good moisturizers mix all three.
Ingredients and the evidence behind them
| Ingredient | What it does | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Petrolatum (petroleum jelly) | Seals water in | A 1992 study in human volunteers found it helped the barrier recover faster after damage. The AAD suggests it to relieve irritated skin |
| Ceramides | Fats that are part of the barrier itself | The AAD says they help strengthen your skin barrier. Trials in acne are small |
| Glycerin | Pulls water in | Listed by the AAD for dry skin, and in its list of mask ingredients for dry or sensitive skin |
| Hyaluronic acid | Pulls water in | The AAD says it helps lock in water to keep skin hydrated |
| Dimethicone | A silicone that forms a light layer | Listed by the AAD for dry skin |
| Shea butter, mineral oil, jojoba oil | Soften and seal | Listed by the AAD for dry skin |
| Colloidal oatmeal | Soothes | The AAD says it can soothe irritated skin |
| Niacinamide | May help the skin make its own ceramides | A lab and skin study in 2000, and a 2005 study of 28 people |
Petrolatum
Petrolatum is plain petroleum jelly. Researchers long assumed it only sat on top of the skin. A 1992 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found that it spreads between the cells of the top layer and helped the barrier recover faster in volunteers whose barrier had been damaged with a solvent. It is greasy, so many people put a thin layer on the sorest areas at night.
Ceramides
Ceramides are waxy fats that sit between the cells of the top layer of skin. A 1995 study of 36 people with acne and 29 without found lower levels of ceramides in the acne group, together with more water loss through the skin. Trials of ceramide moisturizers used with acne treatment are small. In a 2024 split-face trial, 40 people used benzoyl peroxide and adapalene and put a ceramide and niacinamide moisturizer on one side of the face and a plain cream on the other. After 8 weeks, acne improved more on the ceramide side. Measures of redness, water loss and skin moisture improved on both sides, with no clear difference between them.
Niacinamide
A 2000 study found that niacinamide raised ceramide production in skin cells grown in the lab, and that applying it to skin raised ceramide levels and lowered water loss in dry skin. A 2005 study of 28 people with eczema put a 2% niacinamide cream on one forearm and petroleum jelly on the other for 4 to 8 weeks. The niacinamide side lost less water, while petroleum jelly made no clear difference to water loss. Both raised skin moisture.
Those two results differ from the 1992 petroleum jelly study. The studies measured different things in different people: fresh damage in healthy volunteers against long-term dry skin in eczema. Both products helped in some way, and both studies were small.
What to avoid while your barrier heals
- Fragrance. The AAD says fragrances can irritate dry skin, and that "unscented" products may contain chemicals that hide smells.
- Alcohol, which the AAD tells people with dry skin to stop.
- Exfoliating acids. The AAD's rosacea advice lists glycolic acid, lactic acid and urea among ingredients to avoid on easily irritated skin, even though its dry skin advice lists lactic acid as a moisturizing ingredient. While your barrier is damaged and stinging, leave acids out.
- Essential oils, which the AAD says may be too strong for the skin and may cause irritation or allergies.
- Aqueous cream. The NHS no longer recommends it as a moisturizer, because it contains sodium lauryl sulfate, which can cause burning, stinging, itching and redness.
A dermatologist quoted by the AAD also warns people with sensitive skin away from organic skin care lines, because a lot of the ingredients can aggravate allergies, and says that "all natural in no way means hypoallergenic."
Cream, lotion, gel or ointment?
| Type | Best for |
|---|---|
| Ointment | Dry, sore patches and night use. The NHS says ointments are usually free of preservatives, so they suit sensitive skin |
| Cream | Everyday use on a damaged barrier. The AAD says creams add more moisture than lotions |
| Lotion | Mildly dry or oily skin. The NHS says lotions are thin and spread easily but moisturize less |
| Gel | Oily skin. The AAD says a gel is lighter than other types |
If you get acne, choose a moisturizer labeled oil-free, non-comedogenic or "won't clog pores." The AAD says these are unlikely to cause acne, and NICE advises people with acne to avoid oil-based and comedogenic products.
How to apply it
- After washing. The AAD says moisturizer applied to damp skin after a shower traps water in the skin. If damp skin makes your moisturizer sting, pat your face dry first. The AAD's rosacea advice says moisturizer on dry skin is less likely to burn or sting.
- Smooth, do not rub. The NHS says to smooth emollients into the skin in the direction the hair grows, to avoid blocking hair follicles.
- Often. The NHS says emollients can be applied as often as you like, ideally at least 3 or 4 times a day, and that you cannot overuse them.
- Test first. The AAD's home test is to apply a new product to a small spot twice a day for seven to 10 days. See how to patch test a new skincare product.
Moisturizer with acne treatment
The AAD says benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, adapalene, tretinoin and isotretinoin "tend to dry and irritate the skin," and that "using a moisturizer every day can help your skin tolerate these medications." To reduce irritation from a retinoid, the AAD says a dermatologist may suggest applying moisturizer first.
In a 2016 trial, 120 people used adapalene gel for 8 weeks, with no moisturizer, an active moisturizer or a plain cream without the active ingredients. The group using the active moisturizer had fewer pimples at the end than at the start, and less measured irritation than the other two groups. Skinli's plan puts moisturizer on first for people whose skin stings easily. Skinli's guide to the skin barrier and acne covers how to treat acne while the barrier heals.
When a moisturizer causes problems
The NHS lists three reactions to watch for: a burning or stinging feeling that does not settle after a few days, usually caused by a reaction to an ingredient; blocked or inflamed hair follicles that may cause boils; and rashes on the face that can make acne worse. If any of these happen, stop the product and ask a pharmacist or doctor. Skinli's guide to why skincare stings explains more. If you have eczema, a doctor should guide your treatment, and Skinli's guide to moisturizing and bathing for eczema covers daily care. See a doctor if your skin cracks, weeps, blisters or shows signs of infection.
Frequently asked questions
What moisturizer for damaged skin barrier?
For a damaged skin barrier, choose a fragrance-free cream or ointment with ingredients that hold water in the skin, such as ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone or petrolatum. The American Academy of Dermatology lists these ingredients for dry skin and says creams and ointments work better than lotions. If you get acne, pick one labeled non-comedogenic, meaning made so it does not clog pores.
Does moisturizer repair skin barrier?
Moisturizer helps a skin barrier repair itself. MedlinePlus says moisturizers keep the skin moist, help skin repair itself, and are a key part of treating irritant contact dermatitis. The American Academy of Dermatology says effective treatment for dry skin strengthens the outer layer of the skin and can reduce its sensitivity. The barrier also needs you to stop whatever damaged it.
Is skin barrier cream the same as moisturizer?
A skin barrier cream is a moisturizer sold with a name that describes its job. The NHS says some leave-on emollients, its word for moisturizers, create a protective barrier over the skin to lock in moisture. The American Academy of Dermatology mentions barrier repair creams alongside other gentle moisturizers. Judge one by its ingredients and by whether it stings on your skin.
Is ceramide good for skin barrier?
Ceramides are good for the skin barrier. The American Academy of Dermatology describes ceramides as waxy lipid molecules that help hydrate skin and help strengthen your skin barrier. Your skin makes its own ceramides, and a 1995 study of 36 acne patients found lower ceramide levels alongside higher water loss. Studies of ceramide moisturizers used with acne treatment are small.
Is glycerin good for damaged skin barrier?
Glycerin is a good moisturizing ingredient for a damaged skin barrier. The American Academy of Dermatology lists glycerin among the ingredients to look for in a cream for dry skin and says it can help smooth and soften skin. Glycerin pulls water into the top layer of skin, a 2017 review explains, so it works best in a product that also seals water in.
Is niacinamide good for damaged skin barrier?
Niacinamide may help a damaged skin barrier, but the evidence is small. In a 2000 study, niacinamide raised the skin's own ceramides in lab cells and lowered water loss from dry skin. A 2005 study of 28 people with eczema found a 2% niacinamide cream reduced water loss better than petroleum jelly. Add it only once nothing stings, like any new product.
Is petroleum jelly good for a damaged skin barrier?
Petroleum jelly is good for a damaged skin barrier. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests it to relieve a skin reaction and calls it an inexpensive moisturizer. A 1992 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found it helped the barrier recover faster after damage. It is greasy, so many people use it at night or on the sorest spots.
Can I use hyaluronic acid on damaged skin barrier?
You can use hyaluronic acid on a damaged skin barrier. The American Academy of Dermatology says hyaluronic acid helps lock in water to keep skin hydrated, and lists it among ingredients to look for in a moisturizer for dry skin. A 2017 review groups it with glycerin as an ingredient that pulls water into the skin. Put a moisturizer on top, because the review says water pulled in this way can evaporate.
Which ingredients repair skin barrier?
Ingredients that help the skin barrier repair include ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, dimethicone, petrolatum, shea butter, mineral oil and colloidal oatmeal, based on American Academy of Dermatology lists for dry and sensitive skin. Niacinamide has small studies behind it. Stopping irritating products matters as much as the ingredient, because the NHS calls avoiding the irritant one of the most important steps in treating contact dermatitis.
Should I use a cream or a gel moisturizer for a damaged skin barrier?
A cream is usually the better choice for a damaged skin barrier, and an ointment is better still on dry, sore patches. The American Academy of Dermatology says creams add more moisture than lotions and ointments add the most. A gel is lighter and suits oily skin. The NHS says ointments are usually free of preservatives, so they suit sensitive skin.
Is skin barrier cream good for eczema?
A skin barrier cream can help eczema as part of treatment, because moisturizers are a main treatment for dry, itchy skin conditions. The NHS says emollients, its word for moisturizers, are often used to manage eczema and help prevent flare-ups. Eczema is a medical condition that a doctor diagnoses and treats. For daily care, choose a fragrance-free cream or ointment.
Sources
- How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Do facial masks work, and should I add one to my skin care routine? (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Dry skin: Overview (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Moisturizer: Why you may need it if you have acne (American Academy of Dermatology)
- 7 rosacea skin care tips dermatologists recommend (American Academy of Dermatology)
- How to test skin care products (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Skin care on a budget (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Acne: Diagnosis and treatment (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Emollients (NHS)
- Contact dermatitis: Treatment (NHS)
- Contact dermatitis (MedlinePlus, U.S. National Library of Medicine)
- Acne vulgaris: management (NG198), Recommendations (National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE))
- The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: a review (Clinical Medicine and Research (PubMed Central))
- Effects of petrolatum on stratum corneum structure and function (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (PubMed))
- Impaired water barrier function in acne vulgaris (Archives of Dermatological Research (PubMed))
- Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier (British Journal of Dermatology (PubMed))
- Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin (International Journal of Dermatology (PubMed))
- Efficacy of ceramides and niacinamide-containing moisturizer versus hydrophilic cream in combination with topical anti-acne treatment in mild to moderate acne vulgaris (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (PubMed))
- A double-blinded, randomized, vehicle-controlled study to access skin tolerability and efficacy of an anti-inflammatory moisturizer in treatment of acne with 0.1% adapalene gel (Journal of Dermatological Treatment (PubMed))
Opens LinkedIn with a link to this guide.
Get a routine built from your own photo.
One photo and two or three quick questions. You do not need an account to see your routine.
Analyze my skinSkinli gives general skincare education and is not a doctor. Stop a product and see a doctor for burning that does not settle, swelling, blisters, a rash that spreads, pus, yellow crusts or fever. Call emergency services for swelling of the lips, tongue or throat, or trouble breathing.