Sunscreen for acne-prone skin: what to look for

Sunscreen and acne have a reputation for not getting along. Many people with pimples stop using sunscreen because a thick cream once seemed to cause a breakout. That is a real concern, and it has a simple answer: choose a sunscreen made for skin that clogs easily, and use it every morning. This guide explains what to look for on the label, why acne-prone skin needs sun protection more than most, and how sunscreen fits with an acne treatment. It is part of Skinli's guide on how to choose a sunscreen for your face.

The label words that matter for acne-prone skin

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) gives people with acne a short list. Its advice is to use "a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher," and to look for a sunscreen that says 'non-comedogenic' or 'won't clog pores' on the label.

Here is what each part means in plain words:

Label words	What they tell you
Broad Spectrum	It protects against both kinds of ultraviolet light that harm skin, the kind that burns and the kind that ages
SPF 30 or higher	It filters out 97 percent of the sun's burning rays, per the AAD
Water Resistant (40 or 80 minutes)	It keeps working for that many minutes while you sweat or swim
Non-comedogenic, or "won't clog pores"	The product is made so it does not block pores
Oil-free	It has no added oils, which NICE's acne guideline asks people with acne to avoid

The AAD's page on habits that worsen acne says products labeled non-comedogenic "don't cause breakouts in most people." The UK's National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE) says the same thing from the other direction. Its acne guideline advises people with acne who use sunscreens "to avoid oil-based and comedogenic preparations."

So the label word is the first thing to check. The brand name tells you nothing about pores. Skinli names no brands for this reason.

Why acne-prone skin needs sunscreen

There are three reasons, and each one comes from the AAD.

Tanning can make acne worse. The AAD's acne tips say to stay out of the sun and tanning beds, because "along with increasing your risk for skin cancer, tanning damages your skin and can worsen acne." A tan can hide redness for a few days. The damage underneath stays.

Acne treatments can make skin burn faster. The same AAD page says some acne medicines can make your skin more sensitive to the ultraviolet rays from the sun and tanning beds. For retinoids, a group that includes adapalene, the AAD's treatment page lists protecting skin from the sun as part of using the medicine as directed. Our guide on how to start adapalene without irritation covers that treatment step by step.

Dark marks fade better with sunscreen. After a pimple heals, it often leaves a flat brown or red mark. The AAD's page on fading dark spots says that daily sunscreen "can prevent new dark spots and patches. It can also help to clear existing ones." Skinli's own plan builds on this. It puts sunscreen in every morning routine because marks fade on time when skin is protected.

Gel, cream, lotion or stick

The AAD's sunscreen FAQ matches forms to skin types:

• Gels are "good for oily complexions and hairy areas."
• Creams are "best for dry skin and applying on the face."
• Sticks are "good to use around the eyes."

If your skin is oily and breaks out often, a gel or a light lotion labeled non-comedogenic is a sensible first try. If your acne treatment leaves your skin dry and flaky, a non-comedogenic cream may feel better. Both are fine as long as the label has the words from the table above.

Sprays need care on the face. The FDA says "spray sunscreens should never be applied directly to your face." Spray into your hands and spread it on, or use a lotion for the face.

Mineral, chemical and tinted sunscreens

Sunscreens fall into two groups by their active ingredient. Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both. Chemical sunscreens use other active ingredients. The AAD recommends mineral sunscreen for people with sensitive skin. It also says any of these types can protect you if it is broad spectrum, water resistant and SPF 30 or higher.

No source that Skinli read says one group causes fewer pimples than the other. For acne-prone skin, the non-comedogenic label matters more than the group. Our guide to mineral vs chemical sunscreen compares the two in detail.

Tinted sunscreen is worth a look if you have medium or dark skin, or if dark marks are your main worry. The AAD says the iron oxide in tinted sunscreen helps protect skin from the sun's visible light, which can darken spots. For people with oily skin, the AAD asks for a tinted sunscreen that is also non-comedogenic. Tint can also hide the white film some sunscreens leave.

How much to use and when

Most people use too little sunscreen. The AAD says to use at least 1 teaspoon for the face, which it describes as enough to cover the length of your index and middle fingers. Skinli's plan uses the same measure: two lines of sunscreen, one on each of two fingers, for the face and neck. It feels like a lot the first time.

Put it on as the last step of your morning routine, after moisturizer. Our guide on what order to apply your acne products shows where each step goes. Apply it before you go outside. The AAD says to apply sunscreen to dry skin 15 minutes before going outdoors, and to reapply every two hours outdoors, or after swimming or sweating.

At night, wash it off. Skinli's plan starts every evening with a gentle cleanser for this reason: sunscreen and the day's oil come off before the acne treatment goes on.

Sunscreen with benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or adapalene

Sunscreen goes in the morning. Most acne treatments in Skinli's plan go on at night. So they rarely touch each other on the skin.

A few practical points:

1. Keep the steps separate. Apply the night treatment to clean skin in the evening, and sunscreen in the morning.
2. Expect some dryness. If your treatment dries your skin, a moisturizer before sunscreen helps. Choose one that is also non-comedogenic.
3. Test one new product at a time. If you start a new sunscreen and a new acne treatment in the same week and your skin reacts, you will not know which one caused it. Our guide on how to patch test a new skincare product shows how to try a product on a small area first.
4. Wear it on cloudy days too. The AAD says up to 80 percent of the sun's harmful rays can pass through clouds.

Skinli's starter routine with three products puts all of this into one simple morning and night plan.

Reading the back of the tube

The front of a sunscreen shows the big claims. The back holds the Drug Facts box, and in the United States its wording is set by federal rules (21 CFR 201.327). It is worth one minute in the store.

• Active ingredients tell you whether the sunscreen is mineral (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) or chemical.
• Uses says "helps prevent sunburn" on every sunscreen. Only a broad-spectrum product of SPF 15 or higher may also say it lowers the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used with other sun protection.
• Directions tell you how often to reapply. Water-resistant products name 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or sweating.
• Other information tells you to protect the product from heat and direct sun.

The words non-comedogenic and oil-free usually sit on the front. If you cannot find them anywhere on the tube, choose another product.

If a sunscreen seems to cause pimples

First, check the label. If the words non-comedogenic or "won't clog pores" are missing, switch to one that has them. Also check for oils near the top of the ingredient list, since NICE advises people with acne to avoid oil-based sunscreens.

Second, give the new sunscreen time. A single bad week can come from many things: a new acne treatment, stress, or the normal ups and downs of acne.

Third, look for a rash. Every sunscreen sold in the United States must say on its label "Stop use and ask a doctor if rash occurs." An itchy, red, spreading rash is a reason to stop that product and ask a doctor.

See a doctor or dermatologist if your acne is painful, deep under the skin, leaving scars, or not improving after steady care. Sunscreen protects the skin while an acne treatment does the clearing. Skinli can build a starting plan from one photo of your skin and two quick questions at analyze your skin.