Makeup for sensitive skin: labels, eyes, removal

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) gives its makeup advice for sensitive skin on its rosacea, acne and contact dermatitis pages. It names water-based or powder makeup, a light liquid foundation set with powder, and, for acne-prone skin, products labeled non-comedogenic. Label words such as "hypoallergenic" have no legal meaning in the US, so the advice also covers testing a new product and removing makeup gently. This guide covers foundation, eye makeup, labels, removal and clean tools. It is part of Skinli's guide to sensitive skin.

Skinli gives general education and is not a doctor. Skinli has tested no makeup, so this page names no brand. Whether makeup causes acne is covered in does makeup cause acne.

The makeup the AAD names

Much of the AAD's advice on makeup for sensitive skin is written for rosacea, a condition the AAD says "often makes skin sensitive and easily irritated". For rosacea, the AAD says "dermatologists often recommend water-based or powder makeup, which is less likely to irritate your skin." Its page on preventing rosacea flare-ups lists:

• "Applying a mild, fragrance-free emollient to your skin before you apply makeup." An emollient is a moisturizer.
• "Using a light, liquid-based foundation makeup that spreads easily and can be set with powder."
• Avoiding waterproof makeup, and heavy foundations that do not spread easily or need makeup remover.

The AAD adds that a green-tinted concealer can hide redness. More rosacea advice is in skincare for rosacea.

For acne-prone skin, the AAD says: "Since acne-prone skin is sensitive, people with acne may find that certain makeup products, such as foundations and concealers, worsen acne or cause new breakouts." Its advice is to look for one of these on the label: "Oil-free, won't clog pores, or non-comedogenic." Non-comedogenic means the product does not block pores. Another AAD page says: "It's okay to wear makeup if you choose mineral makeup or one that says 'non-comedogenic.'" The NHS and the NICE acne guideline give the same advice. The guide what non-comedogenic means explains that label.

Makeup with sunscreen in it needs care. The AAD says: "To get the SPF benefits, you'd have to use a makeup that has SPF 30 or higher. You'd also have to reapply your makeup every two hours." For people who want color, the AAD says "A tinted sunscreen that matches your skin tone can help you avoid the white residue."

What makeup labels can tell you

The FDA says: "There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term 'hypoallergenic.'" It adds: "The term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean." MedlinePlus agrees that "natural" and "hypoallergenic" have no official meaning. The FDA also says it isn't enough to check for terms like "hypoallergenic", "fragrance-free" or "for sensitive skin", because no federal standard defines them.

The AAD still treats hypoallergenic as a useful word. It lists it with the words "The product can still cause an allergic reaction, but there is less risk". For a rash around the eyes, it says: "Switching to a hypoallergenic product may prevent a new rash."

The ingredient list tells you more. The FDA says common cosmetic allergens "fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals." MedlinePlus says "Fragrances and preservatives are the most common causes of skin problems." A 2019 review says allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics is common, and that "The face is exposed to greatest number of cosmetics". Choosing fragrance-free makeup and reading its list for preservatives you reacted to before covers the two causes MedlinePlus names as most common.

Eye makeup and sensitive eyes

The skin around the eyes reacts more easily. Contact dermatitis is a rash caused by something that touches the skin, and the AAD says: "Skin around the eyes is thin and delicate, which makes it easier for contact dermatitis to develop there." It adds that when an eye product "touches the skin around your eyes, your skin may be reacting to a fragrance or other ingredient."

An eyelid rash can come from products used far from the eyes. A 2019 review of causes lists "shampoo, conditioner, facial cleansers, makeup remover, mascara, nail polish, acrylic nails, makeup sponges, eyelash curlers, and allergens transferred from the hands." The AAD says some people with a nail polish allergy get the rash on their eyelids instead of their hands. A 2024 review says the most common causes are "metals, fragrances, preservatives, acrylates, and topical medications". Topical medications are medicines put on the skin.

The FDA's advice on eye cosmetics:

• "Don't use any cosmetics near your eyes unless they are intended specifically for that use."
• "If any eye cosmetic causes irritation, stop using it immediately. If irritation persists, see a doctor."
• "Avoid using eye cosmetics if you have an eye infection or the skin around the eye is inflamed."

The NHS says to stop eye makeup while you have blepharitis, a condition that "causes swollen, itchy eyelids": "do not use eye makeup, especially eyeliner and mascara, while you have symptoms".

Mascara needs replacing. The AAD's page on old makeup gives "three months", and the FDA says makers usually advise throwing mascara out "two to four months after purchase."

For creams around the eyes, see eye cream for sensitive skin.

Putting makeup on and taking it off

The AAD's order for a routine is: wash your face, apply any treatment, apply moisturizer and/or sunscreen, then apply makeup. If you use an acne treatment, "apply the acne medication first." Use a gentle touch: the AAD's acne makeup page says "You want to avoid irritating your skin."

Take makeup off every night. The AAD says: "Remove your makeup, including eye makeup, before going to bed. Use an oil-free makeup remover." It also warns that "Even non-comedogenic makeup can cause acne if you sleep in it." Then wash with your fingertips and lukewarm water, and "pat dry with a soft towel", as the AAD's face washing page advises.

Keep makeup and tools clean

• Brushes. The AAD says "it's a good idea to wash your brushes every 7 to 10 days," because dirty brushes can lead to acne breakouts and rashes.
• Sponges. "Sponges should be cleaned after every use," the AAD's page on old makeup says.
• Sharing. "Make sure you're the only person who uses your makeup, makeup brushes, and makeup applicators."
• Age. "Old makeup can also cause skin problems." Some products show a symbol of an open jar with a number, and the AAD says "The number tells you how many months the product should last after you open it". In the US that symbol is optional.
• Heat. The FDA says: "Don't store cosmetics at temperatures above 85 degrees F."

Test new makeup, and know when to see a doctor

Test each new product before it goes on your face. The AAD's method is twice a day for seven to 10 days on a quarter-sized spot, such as the bend of the elbow. The full method is in how to patch test a new skincare product. A reaction can be slow: the AAD says an allergic rash "tends to appear hours or days" after contact, and acne from makeup can take "anywhere from a few days to 6 months" to appear. For lip products, the AAD suggests stopping everything on the lips, then adding back one product a week once the rash clears.

See a doctor if a rash spreads, blisters, lasts, or keeps coming back. A dermatologist can find the cause with patch testing. Get an urgent appointment if an eyelid is red, hot, painful and swollen, or if you think you are having an allergic reaction.